10 Best Full Tang Bushcraft Knives (Tested Picks for Real Outdoor Use)

best full tang knives for bushcraft

A full tang bushcraft knife is one of the best tools you can have in the wilderness. It’s an all-purpose machine, which will serve you well for carving kindling, batoning through wet logs, or cooking over a fore. It’s a blade that won’t snap or give up under pressure.

The grind of a bushcraft knife matters, too. Scandi is great for carving, flat is excellent for all-around use, convex is ideal for strength, and so on. My list covers 10 hand-picked knives tested for real-world reliability, not just paper specs. You’ll find budget workhorses and premium steel options, fit for every outdoor purpose:

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1. đŸȘ“ Morakniv Garberg – Full Tang Utility in Its Purest Form

Specs:

  • Grind: Scandi
  • Blade Steel: High Carbon (DLC-coated, ~58–60 HRC)
  • Blade Length: 4.3″
  • Blade Thickness: 3.2mm
  • Overall Length: 9″
  • Weight: 9.6 oz (with sheath)
  • Sheath: Ambidextrous polymer included; leather and Multi-Mount options available

Pros:

  • Excellent for carving and controlled woodwork
  • DLC finish helps resist rust and glare in the field
  • High-friction grip works well in wet and cold weather
  • True full tang Mora-finally
  • Compatible with ferro rods via 90° spine

Cons:

  • Handle may feel undersized for users with XL hands
  • Polymer sheath is serviceable but not impressive
  • DLC coating will wear with batoning or heavy scraping

Anyone who’s ever used a Mora knife knows these bushcraft knives are legendary for their sharpness and durability – at an affordable price point. When Morakniv finally released a true full tang model, it sent waves throughout the bushcraft communities. The Garberg doesn’t try to reinvent knives, it simply excels at everything that matters.

At its core, the Garberg is a 4.3 inch high carbon steel blade, hardened to 58 – 60 HRC, coated with a DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) finish that helps with corrosion resistance and reflectivity reduction. What’s more, this bushcraft knife’s Scandi grind bites deep into wood, making it exceptional for feather-sticking and fire prep.

It’s not a chopper, but it will baton through wrist-thick hardwood assuming the proper technique.

What really stands out in field use is its handle. The Garberg’s ergonomic polymer grip doesn’t look premium, but it offers a high-friction, non-slip surface. It’s great even in wet and freezing conditions. Moreover, its integrated finger guard prevents slip-throughs during high-pressure cuts, and its rear-end is flat enough to strike with if necessary.

I field tested the Garberg over three days in the Rhodopes. As temps dropped to near freezing at night, and everything was damp, the Garberg handled fire prep, shelter work, cooking, and food prep – slicing through bacon like it was nothing. Its edge held up the whole trip with zero stropping, and its 90-dedegree spine reliably sparked a ferro rod even after the blade got covered in sap.

2. đŸ”„ ESEE-4 – The Survivalist’s Best Friend, Built Like a Brick

Specs:

  • Grind: Full Flat
  • Blade Steel: 1095 High Carbon Steel (55–57 RC)
  • Blade Length: 4.5″
  • Cutting Edge: 4.1″
  • Blade Thickness: 0.188″
  • Overall Length: 9″
  • Weight: 8 oz (knife), 11 oz with sheath
  • Handle: 3D G10 or Micarta (interchangeable)
  • Sheath: Ambidextrous polymer with clip plate

Pros:

  • Tough as nails, built to handle worst-case scenarios
  • Edge geometry is versatile: slices well, chops acceptably, carves beautifully
  • G10/Micarta handles offer excellent control
  • Made in the USA with a lifetime “no questions asked” warranty
  • Easy to maintain and sharpen in the field

Cons:

  • Carbon steel demands regular oiling and care (will rust if ignored)
  • Sheath can loosen over time and doesn’t match the knife’s bombproof feel
  • A little heavy for ultralight minimalist setups

The ESEE-4 is a knife you want to have in a pickle. This is not a knife you carry just for comfort. It’s a bit pricey, but this bushcrafting beast was designed for military personnel, search and rescue teams, and backcountry professionals. It’s earned its reputation for refusing to fail under pressure.

This full tang bushcraft knife features a thick and rugged 1095 high carbon steel blade, heat-treated to absolute perfection – sitting at 55 – 57 HRC. This provides it with the perfect balance of hardness and edge redention while staying tough enough to pry and carve without chipping. Its 4.5 inch blade features a full flat grind, providing ample slicing efficiency – surprisingly so for a quarter-inch slab of steel.

What makes this bushcraft knife special it’s just it’s full-tang construction, steel blade, or any one specific feature – it’s the whole package. The 3D-contoured G10 or Micarta handle scales offer excellent grip with or without gloves. You can really lock in your hand and go to work without worrying about hot spots, even over extended sessions. It’s one of the rare fixed blades that feels equally capable when whittling shavings and cracking through frozen birch.

The ambidextrous polymer sheath is very solid but can lose just a bit of retention after prolonged use. Then again, it’s modular, scout-carry compatible, and durable enough for the majority of situations in the field.

I’ve taken the ESEE-4 on trips where conditions were downright miserable, such as cold rain, wet tinder, etc. One time, I had to split down a frozen oak log just to find dry heartwood. The ESEE-4 didn’t just baton cleanly through it, it also kept its edge well enough to prep fish for dinner an hour later. This is one of the very few knives I’ve used hard and never once had to second guess my choice.

3. đŸŒČ Condor Bushlore Blade Blank – Budget Bushcraft with DIY Appeal

Specs:

  • Grind: Scandi
  • Blade Steel: 1075 High Carbon Steel
  • Blade Length: 4.3″
  • Overall Length: ~9″
  • Weight: 4.6 oz
  • Sheath: Not included
  • Handle: None – DIY or paracord wrap

Pros:

  • Ultra-affordable entry into full tang bushcraft knives
  • Great edge geometry for woodwork and carving
  • Perfect for DIY handle projects and custom builds
  • Excellent balance and finish for the price
  • Full tang makes it viable for light batoning and field use

Cons:

  • No sheath or handle included (that’s the point)
  • Needs more frequent touch-ups than higher-carbon steels
  • Not a great slicer for food prep or finer detail work
  • Will rust if neglected – 1075 needs oil and care

The Condor Bushlore is already a cult favorite among budget-conscious outdoorsmen, but the blade blank version takes things a step further. This full tang bushcraft knife gives you the skeleton of a serious knife at a fraction of the cost. You get the same 1075 high carbon steel, Scandi grind, and full tang construction, but with no handle scales – just a polished, razor-sharp blank ready for customization.

This model is for tinkerers, DIY bushcrafters, or anyone who’s ever looked at a factory handle and thought, I can do better. Wrap it with paracord for a quick setup or fit it with custom wood scales and epoxy for a weekend project that’ll last years.

The 1075 steel doesn’t hold an edge as long as 1095, but it’s a little tougher and easier to sharpen in the field. The Scandi grind is true and clean – it carves wood like it was born to, which makes it great for feather sticks, tent peg shaping, and other small-camp tasks. It’s also easy to maintain, and the polished finish is surprisingly well done for a sub-$30 blade.

I bought one of these blanks and slapped on some scorched oak scales using brass pins and a bit of leftover epoxy. That knife has been in my daypack ever since – used on everything from cleaning fish to carving spoons. I’ve chipped it, dropped it, resharpened it on a rock, and it just keeps going. It’s the kind of tool that earns respect not with marketing, but with mileage.

4. đŸ”„ TOPS B.O.B. (Brothers of Bushcraft) – Survival-First Design That Actually Delivers

Specs:

  • Grind: Modified Scandi
  • Blade Steel: 154CM Stainless Steel (~60 HRC)
  • Blade Length: 4.5″
  • Blade Thickness: 0.19″
  • Overall Length: 10″
  • Handle: Tan Micarta, bow drill divot
  • Sheath: Kydex w/ ferro rod and whistle

Pros:

  • 154CM steel offers excellent corrosion resistance and edge retention
  • Purpose-built for bushcraft: spine sparks well, handle aids fire-starting
  • Comfortable grip with solid control in gloves or bare hands
  • Includes ferro rod + whistle in the sheath
  • Fully field-proven and made in the USA

Cons:

  • Heavier than similar-sized bushcraft knives
  • Sheath retention can loosen over time
  • Handle is great, but could use a bit more palm swell for extended carving
  • Price is steep – but reflects the materials and thought put into it

The TOPS B.O.B. isn’t merely a knife, it’s a bushcraft system disguised as a blade. Designed by the Brothers of Bushcraft collective and built in the USA by TOPS, this knife was purpose-engineered for real fieldcraft. It isn’t pretty or flashy, but when you’re tired or wet, and running out of daylight, it’s the knife you want on your hip.

The 154CM stainless steel blade is a welcome upgrade from the more common 1095. It holds an edge longer, resists rust better, and doesn’t chip under pressure. The Scandi grind (technically a modified Scandi with a micro-bevel) makes it a reliable carver and fire-prep monster. This full tang bushcraft knife is supreme at notching, shaving, and slicing through seasoned wood like butter.

And then there’s the design: A bow drill divot built into the tan Micarta handle for primitive fire-starting. A 90-degree spine that showers sparks off a ferro rod. A perfectly shaped choil for up-close control work. The Kydex sheath even includes a ferro rod and emergency whistle. It’s like the knife comes pre-packed for a survival course.

I carried the B.O.B. on a two-day cold weather skills trip where we weren’t allowed lighters or stoves. Between carving hearthboards, scraping tinder bundles, and striking fires off the spine, this knife became the MVP of the group. It didn’t need a strop until day three – and still shaved bark clean off a frozen log.

5. đŸ’Ș Schrade Reckon Tini – Budget Beast Mode with Field Cred

Specs:

  • Grind: Sabre (nearly flat) with clip point
  • Blade Steel: 1095 High Carbon Steel
  • Blade Length: 6.4″
  • Overall Length: 12.1″
  • Weight: 15.7 oz
  • Handle: TPE (Thermoplastic Elastomer), full tang
  • Sheath: Nylon w/ belt loop and lanyard

Pros:

  • Massive value for a full tang 1095 bushcraft knife
  • Great balance between chopping power and controllable carving
  • Handle is super grippy, even when wet or gloved
  • Forward finger choil adds utility for fine work
  • Solid all-around outdoor and survival performer

Cons:

  • Sheath is just okay – upgrade if you plan to carry often
  • Blade is large and heavy – not great for ultralight kits
  • Edge needs regular touch-ups if used hard
  • Blade coating wears quickly under friction

The Schrade Reckon Tini (model SCHF9) is one of those knives that’s so overbuilt for the price it makes you suspicious. But once you get it in your hand, light a fire, or start batoning through a large log, your suspicions will immediately fade. This thing doesn’t just look tough – it is tough. It’s one of the most durable blades I’ve owned, which says a lot for a bushcraft knife under $50 with a full-tang construction.

Made from 1095 high carbon steel, the Reckon Tini is unapologetically thick at the spine and comes with a wide 6.4-inch clip point blade. That means chopping is in play, not just fine tasks. The steel is heat-treated well and holds a working edge through abuse, though you’ll want to strop or sharpen it semi-regularly on tough jobs. And yes-1095 will rust over time, so make sure to oil it up before storing it.

The TPE handle is rubberized and deeply contoured, proving the knife with excellent grip even when wet. There’s a forward finger choil for controlled cuts and a flared pommel for retention when chopping. Moreover, the included nylon sheath is nothing special, but it gets the job done and comes with a belt loop and a lanyard.

I gave this knife to a friend who forgot his gear on a group trip, and he ended up doing everything with it, including splitting cedar, cutting food, scraping fatwood, even cracking frozen bones for marrow. The edge was dull by the end, but it never rolled or chipped. He bought one for himself that same night.

6. 🧊 FĂ€llkniven R2 Scout – Premium Steel, Precision Build, Featherweight Punch

Specs:

  • Grind: Convex
  • Blade Steel: Elmax Powdered Steel (~60–62 HRC)
  • Blade Length: 3.15″
  • Overall Length: 8″
  • Weight: ~6.2 oz (176g)
  • Handle: Zytel (textured, molded)
  • Sheath: Injection-molded plastic with secure snap fit

Pros:

  • Elmax steel offers elite edge retention and rust resistance
  • Convex grind slices like a dream and is incredibly tough
  • Lightweight and compact, ideal for minimalist setups
  • Excellent for carving, camp cooking, and detail work
  • Made in Sweden by a respected, high-end knife maker

Cons:

  • Shorter blade limits heavy-duty tasks (not a chopper)
  • Zytel handle lacks the warmth or feel of Micarta/wood
  • Sheath is simple – functional but not exciting
  • Premium price for a compact tool

The FĂ€llkniven R2 Scout is what happens when bushcraft meets surgical engineering. Made in Sweden and crafted from Elmax super steel, this bushcraft knife isn’t here to flex – it’s here to quietly outperform everything in its weight class. At just 176 grams (6.2 oz), it’s one of the lightest true full tang bushcraft knives in this lineup, yet it doesn’t compromise on strength or cutting power.

Let’s start with the steel. Elmax is a third-generation powdered steel, known for its incredible edge retention, high corrosion resistance, and extreme toughness. It’s the kind of material usually reserved for custom knives or high-end folders – and here it is in a fixed blade bushcrafter. The edge is a convex grind, which means this thing glides through wood and food like a razor but still holds up for baton work and light chopping.

The Zytel handle is no-frills but perfectly functional. It’s ergonomic, and shaped well for extended carving without creating hotspots. It won’t win beauty contests, but in gloved or wet hands, it will get any job done. The included sheath is a simple plastic affair that snaps the knife in securely – nothing tactical here, just clean and reliable.

I took the R2 Scout out on a light kit overnight trip where weight was a premium. It feather-sticked pine like a Mora, carved tent stakes smoother than expected, and still shaved fuzz sticks for the morning fire with zero touch-ups. The Elmax steel is no joke – even after whittling, food prep, and slicing cordage, the edge felt factory-fresh.

7. đŸ§± Sitivien ST22 – Tactical Bushcraft Tank in a Budget Suit

Specs:

  • Grind: Full Flat
  • Blade Steel: 154CM Stainless (~60–61 HRC)
  • Blade Length: 6.06″
  • Overall Length: 11.5″
  • Blade Thickness: 6mm
  • Weight: 14.07 oz (knife only), 18.3 oz w/ sheath
  • Handle: Textured Micarta
  • Sheath: Kydex w/ multi-angle carry clip

Pros:

  • Outstanding value for premium steel and materials
  • Long blade handles batoning, food prep, and carving
  • Micarta handle is grippy, comfortable, and durable
  • Kydex sheath is tight, secure, and highly configurable
  • Feels like a custom fixed blade at factory knife price

Cons:

  • Very heavy for ultralight or minimalist kits
  • Blade width (1.57″) and thickness make it overkill for fine tasks
  • Sheath may rattle slightly without adjustment
  • Clip mounting system takes some tweaking

The Sitivien ST22 is one of those knives that makes you double-check the price. With a 6mm-thick 154CM stainless steel blade, full tang construction, and Micarta handle scales, it punches in the same weight class as knives two or three times its cost. You could easily mistake it for a $200+ boutique survival knife-until you see that it’s just under $70.

Let’s talk steel. 154CM is a high-end stainless known for its toughness, edge retention, and rust resistance. It’s a common upgrade steel in tactical knives, and here it’s paired with a long, straight-edged blade that makes carving and slicing incredibly efficient. At over 6 inches long, it has reach and chopping ability that compact bushcrafters simply don’t. The full flat grind gives it slicing power, but that thick spine means it’s still viable for batoning and moderate abuse.

The Micarta handle is fat, textured, and shock-absorbent-comfortable even during long sessions. It’s paired with a tight-fitting Kydex sheath that offers multiple carry options (vertical, scout, adjustable clip). At nearly 400g (14 oz) without the sheath, this is not an ultralight knife, and it wasn’t built to be.

I brought the ST22 on a rainy weekend trip in the Balkans and immediately ended up batoning wet oak and splitting knotty pine after our firewood stash turned to sponge. This knife didn’t care as it performed without edge rolling and hot spots. It was a machine – and still shaved dry bark curls when the clouds broke.

8. đŸ» Off-Grid Grizzly V2 – Camp Chef Meets Survival Beast

Specs:

  • Grind: Flat
  • Blade Steel: Sandvik 14C28N Stainless (~60 HRC)
  • Blade Length: 6.1″
  • Blade Width: 2.2″
  • Overall Length: 11.3″
  • Blade Thickness: ~2.9mm
  • Weight: 11.1 oz (knife), 12.9 oz with sheath
  • Handle: G10
  • Sheath: Kydex with Off-Grid Lo-Pro clip (adjustable for belt size + angle)

Pros:

  • Cuts, chops, and slices with chef-like precision and outdoor-ready toughness
  • Sandvik steel balances sharpness with easy maintenance
  • Ergonomic G10 handle with tons of clearance for cooking tasks
  • Kydex sheath is tight, secure, and EDC compatible
  • Multi-role knife: camp, cook, carve, clean – all with one blade

Cons:

  • Wide blade makes it less ideal for precision carving or bushcraft detail work
  • Heavy for a kitchen knife, wide for a belt knife
  • No spine scraping surface for ferro rods
  • Not a great fit for users who prefer compact blades

The Off-Grid Grizzly V2 is a knife that refuses to be categorized. Technically a camp chef knife, it’s built with such overkill specs that it comfortably crosses into bushcraft territory – especially for those who cook as hard as they carve.

The blade is forged from Sandvik 14C28N, a Swedish stainless steel known for its high corrosion resistance, fine edge capability, and ease of sharpening. It’s hardened to around 60 HRC and given a 6.1-inch cutting edge that flares out like a tactical cleaver. This is not a delicate tool. It’s wide (2.2 inches), hefty (11.1 oz), and absurdly effective at everything from batoning kindling to breaking down a trout or slicing fire-roasted peppers.

The G10 handle offers superb grip and a ton of knuckle clearance, which is a godsend for both rock-chop cooking styles and angled feather-sticking. The ergonomics are top-tier – you can do fine work with a pinch grip or really bear down on it with a full fist. The Kydex sheath has outstanding retention and includes the Off-Grid Lo-Pro clip for scout or vertical carry.

I brought the Grizzly V2 to a group campout where I was cooking for six and also splitting firewood every few hours. It replaced both my chef’s knife and my field knife for the whole weekend. The broad blade crushed garlic, deboned trout, and whittled pot hangers without needing a single touch-up. It’s that rare knife that bridges utility and survival in a way that’s actually fun to use.

9. 🧹 Zero Tolerance 0004 – Tactical Heritage with Bushcraft Grit

Specs:

  • Grind: Flat (subtle convex taper)
  • Blade Steel: CPM Cru-Wear (~62 HRC)
  • Blade Length: 4.2″
  • Overall Length: 9″
  • Weight: 6.1 oz (knife only)
  • Handle: Contoured Canvas Micarta
  • Sheath: Full-grain vegetable-tanned leather (scout & belt carry)

Pros:

  • Cru-Wear steel is elite for edge stability and abuse tolerance
  • Micarta handle fits the hand well and stays grippy wet or dry
  • Leather sheath is beautifully made and versatile
  • Drop-point profile offers precision with backbone
  • Built in the USA by a top-tier brand

Cons:

  • Price is steep – you’re paying for steel, not frills
  • Blade is on the shorter side for heavy bushcraft tasks
  • No ferro rod notch or spine scraping surface
  • Lacks dedicated fire-starting or survival features

The ZT 0004 is what happens when a high-end tactical knife brand decides to make a bushcraft-capable fixed blade for real-world carry. With its clean lines, no-frills build, and elite steel, this full-tang bushcraft knife is a subtle powerhouse meant for users who know what they want and refuse to compromise.

The blade is made from CPM Cru-Wear, a powder metallurgy tool steel known for insane toughness, excellent edge retention, and surprising sharpenability. Think of it as a tougher cousin to D2 or 3V – perfect for hard outdoor use where edge damage simply isn’t an option. At 4.2 inches long, the blade is compact but capable, with a tough drop-point profile and a neutral balance that feels nimble in the hand.

The micarta handle is contoured for comfort and durability, filling the hand without excess bulk. It pairs beautifully with the leather sheath, which is made from thick, saddle-tanned leather and offers multiple carry options (standard, scout, Tek-Lok compatible). There’s no rattle, no cheap stitching, and no shortcuts here – just function, quality, and longevity.

I borrowed the ZT 0004 for a winter trip and was skeptical at first – it looks like something a military contractor might carry, not a field carver. But after slicing through frozen paracord, batoning birch rounds, and prepping tinder bundles with surgical precision, I was sold. This knife doesn’t want to be flashy – it simply wants to work quietly and relentlessly.

10. đŸȘ– Cold Steel Leatherneck SF – Tactical Muscle with Bushcraft Capabilities

Specs:

  • Grind: Saber
  • Blade Steel: German D2 Tool Steel (~60 HRC)
  • Blade Length: 6.75″
  • Overall Length: 11.75″
  • Blade Thickness: 5mm
  • Handle: 5″ Kray-Ex (rubberized polymer)
  • Sheath: Secure-Ex (weather-resistant, ambidextrous)

Pros:

  • Long, tough blade excels at heavy-duty tasks
  • D2 steel holds a razor edge through hard use
  • Kray-Ex handle offers incredible grip and comfort
  • Excellent value for the blade size and steel quality
  • Tactical roots make it combat- and survival-ready

Cons:

  • Large and heavy – not ideal for lightweight or EDC kits
  • Sheath clip options are basic and not modular
  • Powder coating will wear over time with baton/scrape use
  • Too aggressive-looking for some bushcraft purists

Originally designed as a military utility knife, the Cold Steel Leatherneck SF carries a combat aesthetic but has all the core elements of a serious survival blade. It’s a full tang brute made from German D2 tool steel, which offers excellent edge retention, high hardness, and good toughness for hard-use outdoor tasks. The clip point blade is long, sharp, and ready to do damage to wood and meat.

At 6.75 inches, the blade gives you more reach than most bushcraft knives – making it ideal for chopping, slashing, and deep carving. The saber grind holds up to heavy baton work without chipping, and the factory edge is surprisingly aggressive for such a thick slab. It’s coated in a non-reflective black powder coat for rust resistance and stealth, though that finish will wear down with regular abuse.

The handle is Cold Steel’s proprietary Kray-Ex – a rubbery material that feels like dense, grippy TPE. It’s formed with finger grooves and topped with a double guard that prevents any chance of sliding up onto the blade. The Secure-Ex sheath is weather-resistant, ambidextrous, and holds the blade tight without rattle.

I carried the Leatherneck SF during a four-day wet-weather field camp. It batoned through soaked logs like they were dry pine, handled food prep without feeling overbuilt, and never once slipped in my hand, even when soaked with rain and fish oil. It’s a bit bulky on the belt, sure – but the confidence it gave me in the bush was worth the extra ounces.

Edge Grinds: What They Mean & Why They Matter in Bushcraft Knives

When choosing a full tang bushcraft knife, edge grind is one of the most important-and misunderstood-features. It affects how your knife cuts, how easy it is to sharpen in the field, and how it holds up to abuse. Here’s what you actually need to know:

Scandi Grind

Best for: Carving, feather-sticking, beginner-friendly woodwork

The Scandi grind is the classic bushcraft profile – flat from the edge all the way up, with no secondary bevel. It creates a wide, wedge-like cutting edge that’s razor-sharp and easy to control, especially for precision woodwork like notching or feathering.

Because the bevel is so large and visible, it’s easier to sharpen in the field with a flat stone or even a smooth rock. That’s why it’s ideal for beginners or anyone doing repeated carving in soft to medium wood.

Downsides: It doesn’t slice as well through food or rope. Also, the edge can chip under twisting or lateral force during batoning.

Flat Grind (Full or Saber)

Best for: All-around use, slicing, food prep, mixed survival tasks

Flat grinds taper from the spine down to the edge, either in a full-flat (edge to spine) or saber style (edge to halfway up). They offer great versatility-you can baton with them, slice meat and vegetables, or even do feather sticks with the right angle and sharpness.

They don’t excel at one specific task but are great for doing a little of everything well. If you want a knife that can go from cutting kindling to gutting a fish to prepping dinner, this is probably your grind.

Downsides: They’re harder to sharpen without gear, and some designs sacrifice edge strength if too thin.

Convex Grind

Best for: Heavy-duty use, chopping, long-term durability

The convex grind curves outward from spine to edge, like a smooth bulge. This creates a thicker, stronger edge that can take serious abuse without chipping. It’s great for chopping, splitting, and high-impact survival work where you don’t want your blade to fail.

Convex edges also excel at slicing dense materials like hard rubber, fatwood, or frozen meat. It’s common in high-end knives because it balances strength and cutting performance beautifully.

Downsides: It’s harder to sharpen in the field without a strop, and not ideal for detailed carving.

Hollow Grind

Best for: Precision slicing, skinning, food prep

Hollow grinds are concave-meaning the blade scoops inward from spine to edge. This creates an extremely thin and sharp edge that glides through materials with almost no resistance. It’s great for hunters, chefs, and bushcrafters who need surgical slicing ability.

Downsides: It’s not tough. Hollow grinds can chip or roll if you baton or twist them through wood. Definitely not ideal for fire prep or heavy tasks.

How to Choose the Right Full Tang Bushcraft Knife

Picking a bushcraft knife isn’t about finding “the best” – it’s about finding the one that fits you, your terrain, and how you actually use it. Here’s a no-BS breakdown of what to consider before you buy.

1. Blade Steel: Pick for Conditions, Not Just Specs

You’ll see terms like 1095, D2, Elmax, or 154CM thrown around – but they all trade off between toughness, edge retention, rust resistance, and sharpenability.

  • 1095 Carbon Steel – Tough, easy to sharpen, but rusts fast. Great for wetter climates if you oil it.
  • D2 Tool Steel – Harder and holds an edge longer than 1095. More rust-resistant, but trickier to sharpen.
  • Stainless Steels (e.g., 154CM, 14C28N) – Easier maintenance, great edge retention, but not as tough as high-carbons for hard batoning.
  • Super Steels (Elmax, Cru-Wear) – Top-tier performance across the board, but pricey and often overkill for casual users.

đŸ§Ș Bottom line: If you’re in humid/rainy conditions and don’t want to babysit your blade, go stainless. If you want a field-scorched workhorse and don’t mind wiping it down, carbon steels are your friend.

2. Grind Type: Match to Your Main Tasks

Covered in detail above, but here’s the 30-second recap:

  • Scandi – Best for carving, bushcraft basics, easy to sharpen.
  • Flat – All-rounder. Slices, batons, and carves fairly well.
  • Convex – Great for chopping and hard-use tasks.
  • Hollow – Excellent slicer, poor for rough woodwork.

đŸ”„ Pro tip: A Scandi or flat grind will serve 90% of bushcraft users just fine.

3. Handle Ergonomics: Underrated but Critical

Doesn’t matter how good the steel is – if the handle sucks, your hand’s going to feel it. Look for:

  • Shape: Should fill your palm comfortably without hot spots.
  • Material: Micarta, G10, or grippy rubberized synthetics (like Kray-Ex) work well wet.
  • Features: Finger guards and flared pommels help with safety and chopping control.

If you’ll be wearing gloves often, avoid tiny minimalist handles.

4. Size & Weight: Don’t Go Bigger Than You Need

Bigger doesn’t always mean better. A good bushcraft blade is usually:

  • Blade length: 3.5″ to 5.5″
  • Total weight: Under 16 oz (with sheath)

Large blades like the Schrade or Leatherneck are great for camp building or chopping, but they’re slower, heavier, and worse for detail work. Smaller knives are more nimble but can’t baton logs or dig out roots as easily.

Choose based on your main tasks: carving and food prep = smaller blade. Shelter building and wood processing = bigger, thicker spine.

5. Sheath System: Don’t Overlook It

A good knife with a bad sheath = frustration.

  • Kydex: Durable, waterproof, and modular (great for scout carry).
  • Leather: Traditional and classy, but can stretch and retain moisture.
  • Polymer/Nylon: Functional, but often low-quality on budget knives.

Make sure it locks the knife in securely, and offers the carry style you prefer – vertical belt, scout, MOLLE, or neck.

Don’t Buy for the Apocalypse – Buy for What You Actually Do

If you spend weekends carving spoons in the forest, you don’t need a 6mm-thick tactical tank. And if you’re hiking through the Rockies solo, don’t bring a 3.5″ Mora clone and hope it’ll baton firewood all night.

Choose a knife that matches your terrain, your skillset, and your workload.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions About Full Tang Bushcraft Knives

Why does “full tang” matter in a bushcraft knife?

Full tang means the blade steel runs through the entire handle. This massively increases strength and stability – you can baton, pry, and chop without worrying about the blade snapping off the grip. For bushcraft and survival use, it’s the gold standard.

Is carbon steel better than stainless for bushcraft?

It depends. Carbon steel (like 1095) is tougher and easier to sharpen in the field – but it rusts if you don’t keep it dry and oiled. Stainless steels (like 14C28N or 154CM) resist corrosion and hold an edge longer, but they’re harder to sharpen without proper tools. Pick based on your climate and maintenance habits.

Can I baton wood with these knives?

Yes – as long as they’re full tang and 3.5mm+ thick, they can handle batoning. Flat and convex grinds usually hold up best. Avoid doing it with hollow grind blades or partial tang designs – they’re more likely to fail under lateral pressure.

How do I maintain a carbon steel bushcraft knife?

Wipe it dry after each use (especially in wet conditions)
Apply a thin coat of oil before storage (mineral oil, gun oil, even olive oil in a pinch)
Don’t leave it in a wet sheath overnight
Sharpen regularly with a stone or field sharpener
It’ll last a lifetime if you treat it like a tool, not a toy.

What blade length is best for bushcraft?

Between 4 and 5 inches hits the sweet spot – long enough to baton kindling, short enough for precise carving. Bigger blades (6″+) are better for chopping, but they sacrifice fine control. Under 4″ is usually too short for heavier tasks unless you’re pairing it with a larger tool.

What’s the strongest steel in this list?

Cru-Wear (ZT 0004) and Elmax (FĂ€llkniven R2) are the most premium – offering elite edge retention, toughness, and corrosion resistance. 154CM also performs excellently and is more budget-friendly. If raw durability is your priority, these steels are hard to beat.

Full tang means the blade steel runs through the entire handle. This massively increases strength and stability – you can baton, pry, and chop without worrying about the blade snapping off the grip. For bushcraft and survival use, it’s the gold standard.

Final Thoughts: Which Knife Is Right for You?

A great bushcraft knife isn’t about bells, whistles, or branding. It’s about how it feels in your hand when you’re soaked, cold, and trying to light a fire with your last dry stick.

Whether you’re carving spoons by a river or hacking through deadfall to build a lean-to, the right full tang knife gives you control, confidence, and consistency in the field. No blade on this list is perfect for everyone – and that’s the point. You’ve got tools here for:

  • Budget beginners (Condor, Schrade)
  • Survival lifers (ESEE, TOPS)
  • Premium steelheads (ZT, FĂ€llkniven)
  • Camp chefs and crossover users (Grizzly V2)

So ask yourself what you actually need this knife to do. Then pick the one that fits your use case, your hand, and your terrain.

Because at the end of the day, you don’t need 10 knives in a drawer. You need one knife that shows up when it matters – and doesn’t quit when things get hard.

Author

  • Filip

    Filip Jovchevski is a digital content strategist and the creator of TinyKitchenGuy.com, a site dedicated to helping people cook smarter in home kitchens. With over a decade of experience in content and SEO, Filip knows how to cut through the noise and deliver practical, no-nonsense advice backed by real testing and hands-on use.

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